The tone is the most useful part and does shape the sound a bit, but the pedal does not create any of that gain-y fuzz-y goodness you see in the video.Do you guys think this could be a crummy transistor? I try to bread boarding it last night and it sounds pretty good!except the range pot sounded strange before 12 o'clock, It sounds like some gated fuzz.I replace 40uf with 47uf and the rest are the same value as the layout, and try a few different transistors but they all act the same.I'm pretty new in building pedals, wondering what could be wrong, Another successful build of this layout over here. I am a little afraid about what I have read about toll taxes, DHL costs . For a first try, I will stay "conservative"Tahnks in advance for your answering regarding wire. This seems to work better before any distortion, while I prefer my other boosts (SHO, Baby Pink) after. Pretty cool as a booster for solos that need a bit more of whatever it needs or just a tone tweaker. Here she is:http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/isolditnj0125/IMG_6091.jpgGet it????? 'Of course that might just be 'snake oil' (if you'll excuse the pun!). Update: I removed the ON/OFF box to see if that was the problem or the board. Powered through a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2 Plus.One of my few successes with Vero board. Very sloppy..(sorry) but this is with mesa gear in full "v" on the eq.
I've seen other layouts that use a B100K pot for the caps. There is circuitry that will make the pop completely go away but it compromises the sound of this circuit which is a very raw circuit that relies on the interaction between it and your guitar and amp to do its magic. It all depends if I can keep devoting the same amount of time but I reckon even if I'm really busy I could still do 10 a month so it would still be done for Christmas at the slowest rate. Yes, it was etched with ferric chlorid (PNP blue mask). First trial, not perfect but I am pretty satisfied with the result. I just boxed it today and unfortunately now it seems to be sounding different. Sorry i'm new to this. Post the voltages you're getting between the transistor pins and ground, and a close up front and back pic of the board.
In theory, should that JFET work in it? Hi, I am a newbe (so forgive my question) and I am not sure if this is something achievable with the current naga viper schematic.I am hunting for a Brian May kind treble-booster (usually some +30db of gain), and I crushed into the Naga Viper which intrigued me a lot for its versatility (eg. Just wanted to know if there was a schematic I could look at to help debug. But I think this is normal. Whenever I stack a pedal after it, I lose almost all of the signal.Thank you. Not sure about the Range, but it does go treble boost on 0% and bass boost on 100%..
Keep em coming! Partially boxed my "Naga Viper" and everything appears to be working as expectedwith ONE exception: the "Heat" control seems to just add more "boost" rather than dirtying up the signal (similar to the issue splashsplish mentioned above).I also notice a slightly noisy jump right around the ZERO mark of the boost pot (similar to Don Cico above)but this is a VERY minor issue that I can easily live with.Anyway, I used a 2N2222A as shown in the notes but, after testing, I see that it only reads 150hfe on my multi-metershould I be looking for something with higher gain or do I need to debug further? Can't wait to try this with other dirt pedals!
It works like it should , but boost knob makes little pop at the begginig of its way, when i move with knob ti zero volume. so maby its the jfet what do you guys think. Copyright 2010-14, tagboardeffects. :o) Thanks for verifying mate, layout updated. Galileo would be on the list, so as SD1, Tube screamer, Stuff for U2 music :))Let's see first this "simple one". used a 2NAAAI used a 1M pulldown at both the In and Outputs, circuit side, to ground and have zero switch pop now. Bass Driver! (May I further make a suggestion : Why not put a "standard" list of components with the Veroboard. I have built this vero , but i would like to ask you for help. Ha ha, you'll have to start selling it mate. I've had a really close look at the build for any faults or wrong componets, double checked solder joints and tried substituting transistors and pot values. Hey guys I'm building my first pedal when I get back home in about a week or two. At 9V it is good sounding, at 18v it is better sounding(more tightness and definition) but there is a lot more of hum any help??? I am having two issues.First, The heat pot is doing absolutely nothing. I just did this one. I think i'll reverse them all.Nice little booster this is!+m.
clean boost, full range to treble, light fuzzy tones). Always check FreeStompBoxes.org before asking something like this, or face the rage of some folks here. On my third build and could be that I missed something. There's no reason why not, it's just a transistor at the end of the day even if it runs on different principles, although they usually need some bias tweaking to get them to work properly. You wouldn't think this pedal works well on bass. but it's actually surprisingly good! could be facing the wrong way, also check the pinout of it in some datasheets! Treasure. Go to 'Electronics 2000' to find out about hooking components in series/parallel for specified values. !Thank you. Hello!What other transistors could be used in place of the 2N2222A on this circuit?Thanks! the only different component value i used on my build is that 40uF. Finally realized that the 40 uF cap spans three tracks instead of two like the cap below it.
or bigger? Reflow the solder to make sure that the joints are good andmake sure there are no unwanted bridges. Just sealed the test box and no change. I've changed the Range pot too, purely because it's more like a conventional tone control with the bass in the CCW position. Don't have the original so i can't say, but i figured it could be "range", like how wide frequency range it affects :) So i left it as it was in the orginal layout.Huh. Do that one more time. Otherwise, as I also read that the "heat" control is quite effective, do you think that the pedal "as is" can be used for Brian May tones?Many thanks for your answers ;-). Solid core wire, standard wire ? In fact it only has the very slightest bit of clipping. only subs were 47uf for 40 and I didn't have an A500K for range, so I used an A250k-- the range still seems quite functional with the 250. may swap it with a 500 once I have one just to hear the difference.
I didn't have the chance to personally test it yet, unfortunately.Now the question: as I understood, the NV reaches at max +10db. Succesfully built this one! :o). Heat and Boost need reversing. http://img.audiofanzine.com/image.php?lang=fr&identifier=image&size=normal&module=user&userPhoto_id=272535. just built this one, it sounds really great! Longer leg is +.+m. They have 40uf polarized caps that look like tantalum for $1. Every project (even the small ones) seem to have 1 weird part that I don't have. Thanks for providing the vero layout!I do find the A500K to not really smooth out the treble to bass ranges somehow. I hope it will come with practising !would you (or someone else) be kind enough to control my component list for this pedal at Taydaelectronics before I put an order ? . fitting a deep blue delay, ts808 + split circuit in the tayda 1590BB, it's quite a challange i must say, i'll finish it tomorrow and up some pics.i've been looking for a treble booster but havn't decided yet but this indeed looks nice and a quick one to build, need one as a birthday present for my fionces brother :), Well.. And it is nice out of the box thinking in modernising the linear/hog/bird and rangemaster.+m. No idea why they have them and no one will tell me where they come from. Really nice response, and even adds just a touch of low end. If you've got a 180K resistor, swapping that for the 220K would keep the ratio the same, and so the bias voltage would be the same as well. I knifed it after the photo so those solder bridges are gone. What kind of wire is recommended ?
I've made two of these now, and I had a chance to substitute some other transistors. anyone else encountered the same problem? Oh and by the way, that's 250 verified! BELGOM ALU. But 100% of the time when I've boxed it the oscillation goes. I'm on a vacation till next week. Unity level (pedal on/off comparison) is at about 10-11 o'clockMy pedal has also a strong "pop" when I switch the first time the pedal on. a big +1 on a bass driver vero.
I've experimented with that cap in this kind of circuit in the past and the difference between 47u and 33u wasn't massive so I suspect either will be fine. I've emailed you about this mate but though I'd post it here to in case anyone else would have an ideaI'm having a really strange issue with the Naga Viper boost. issues. You may notice it might pop a bit especially the first time you press it after plugging in. My enclosure is etched, which was not easy at first try, but it looks pretty cool ! But theres an issue.
The manual says: 'FootSwitch - This is just your basic true-bypass switch. Hi. very nice little booster :) .
Is it possible to mod it somehow to reach the +30db area? Effects and dry signal in parallel, 3 channe A few people have commented on posts asking about offboard wiring. But the "heat" pot is acting more like a volume knob- i seem to remember the heat knob having the capability to provide the circuit with quite a bit of it's own distortion like you could use it as an overdrive pedal on its own. You may have to tweak resistor values to get the germanium transistor to bias properly. Plus i may have to paint my "reverse mosrite" project's body again for a thicker coat :)+m. Can anyone verify that the link Ivlark posted fixes this? Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals.
I have tried three different 2n2222a's in there and the output stayed the same. !If i don't get too tired i might still do the Greer Sucker Punch tonight :)+m. Thanks Miro for the reply. So glad I picked this one. Newbie mistake :)))Otherwise, once again many thanks for your advices. Another great layout.
Yes the 50 was a lot quicker than I expected, although I just added an "Unverified" tag and link over to the right so people could filter to see only the unverified layouts too. and the board/pots. Ahh ok I might try swapping the 3n3, It's probably meant to be thin like Brian Mays nasal tone. You could also try a low value base/collector resistor like 100pF, similar to what DAM do with some of their effects. Hi,I'm stuck and can't find the solution so hope you can help me out.I finished the board but as soon as I plug in the guitar at the jack input, no sound. should def work better then you describe :), Thanks so much. The 2SD352 is a NPN transistor too, but it's a germanium transistor.
Thanks, I did did check out the link just wanted to see if I could get a verification before I started tearing things apart. Ha ha, I should have guessed really! This pedal absolutely rules! Went throught the usual suspects to no avail, then i dug up the schem, and found the resistor..I was supposed to have nice quiet evening and build just one already verified board :)Huge Congrats for 250!!!! (May I ask an SDD3000 / SDD3KP Veroboard layout ?? And You'd think any pedal bought from the big companys should be able to be daisy chained or whatever? Their tip is a little too short, so you can get tip of the plug unconnected is you push the plug too far. and two small samples with the pedal (two different settings ; original sound at the beginning of each samples, then with naga viper. http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k543/jd_roost/IMAG1192-1Small.jpgNext to my Hwy 89. !I am very happy. Alu has been polished with a miracle product used also for polishing motorcycle parts. Yes, The preamp, something like SDD-3KP from Trabant Very important piece of gear to have for imitate the sound of The Edge ! I use a daisy chained power supply, so for things I build for myself I r From Schematic to Stripboard September 2012 http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com Updated 23rd September 2012 A lot of people have asked A number of people have asked me to do a build guide for one of these effects, but I noticed the other day that one of the guys here (timmy) From the source: The Hizumitas was designed for the one and only guitar sorceress, Wata, from the legendary band, Boris! But when I looked at 2n2222a it said npn? I replaced the input cap blend with that of the DAM Red Rooster (4n7/2u2, 100kB pot), and it goes from a snarly boost to a farty, undefined mess with the 2.2uf input cap. Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. I think that the 40u and 47u have to be polarized type, but I am not sure for voltage (16V, 35V, ???? I have the same issue pops first couple times it is pressed then goes away. There are tons of schems just waiting for you!! Like others, I subbed a 47uF for the 40uF with no (apparent??) I tried some different 2n222's but all of mine are unde 200hfe.I cant seem to find a demo of someone just boosting a low volume clean amp (so I can hear just how the pedal sounds on its own without hitting cranked amp) So do you guys think it's functioning correctly (and my memory is serving me wrong) or does this thing clip (distort) a good amount when you crank up the heat knob (as in distort on its own rather than distort by getting louder and hitting your amp with a hotter signal to distort more)[thanks!!! The 200th verified layout was less than 2 months ago though so we could hit the 300 well before Christmas at that rate. I built it twice and wasn't getting any sound. I have the same problem as beedoola: constant noise when the pedal is on, doesn't matter where the knobs are at.However, when I use a battery the noise disappears.My other pedals don't get noisy whatsoever when I use the dc jack.Could it be the filter cap? We could not be m Not all these layouts are verified and some are put together from unverified schematics. Hope my latest musikding order gets here tomorrow. It works like it shoud , also makes typical noise when i moving with knob.
Hey guys,This was my first build from this page. Have a look at the AMZ link above. It will be a great help for beginners, and will give an idea of the component price for the pedal)R1 / 8K2 / A-2337R2 / 68K / A-2334R3 / 220K / A-2339R4 / 2K2 / A-2341 (for led)C1 / 47p / A-527C2 / 3n3 / A-414C3 / 68n / A-707C4 / 1n / A-557C5 / 10n / A-559C6 / 40u / same as C7 ? Sounds great now!
I'm thinking the 1nf input cap could be messed with to let in more bass? Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter. I built mine with a 2N4401. The sound kind of reminds me of a Marshall Super Bass, warm and gritty. Seems like a sort of neat way to combine the input cap panning trick with a vintage germanium Rangemaster. How hard/easy is it to modify this circuit for a pnp (OC44) ? Put this in a test box today. What am I doing wrong? i've already wired a 2M resistor across the input lug and ground on the switch.
What a great little Pedal!Sounds great with my TS808I really love my tone now & I've only a DD3 left on my board that i haven't made myself thanks to you guys :-)http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8368521070_afa02bbaf9_c.jpg, here is mine http://www.freeimagehosting.net/newuploads/brucw.jpg.
I'd really like to get that punch letter set with me as the Madamp G2 is eager to get punched lettering on it's box. I get a volume drop when it's switched on, and no tone change.
This is my new favorite boost. That is the transistor (which is 2N2222A).C=collectorB=baseE=emitter DSG is a FET transistorD=drainS=sourceG=gate.
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