Theduoalso plays well with pure natural oils, and it can reduce their greasiness and tackiness and make them feel nicer on the skin. On top of that chamomile also has some antioxidant activity (thanks to some other active ingredients called matricine, apigenin and luteolin). Overall, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a very promising but not a fully proven Vitamin C derivative. No matter the origin, in small amounts (up to 1%) its a nice, gentle preservative. The strong point of EACthoughis skin brightening. An emollient and natural moisturizer that can be found also in the sebum (oily stuff our skin produces). One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). This counts as really tiny given that "normal" HA has a molecular weight of 0.5-2 million Da. The typical use level of Xantha Gum is below 1%, it is usually in the 0.1-0.5% range. It's worth a try, especiallyif you are after Vitamin C's skin-brightening effects. This makes Vitamin C very stable and soluble in bothwater and oil. Diheptyl Succinate is anatural, "silicone-alternative" emollient that usually comes to the formula withCapryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer. 
Might leave some whitish tint on the skin, though. A big molecule from repeated subunits that is used to form gel-like textures and create a film on the skin. A super versatile and common mineral powder that comes in different particle sizes. We wrote more about nanoparticles and the concerns around them here, but the gist is that if nanoparticles were absorbed into the skin that would be a reason for legitimate health concerns. 1 magic property is that it has skin-lightening or to say it another way depigmenting properties. Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. (The main components of the flower essential oil are linalyl acetate and linalool [around 80% the two together] while it is 1,8-Cineole [around 65%] in the essential oil of the leaves.). A 2009 review article about the safety of nanoparticles summarizes this, "to date, in-vivo and in-vitro studies have not demonstrated percutaneous penetration of nanosized particles in titanium dioxide and zinc oxide sunscreens". 
The famousomega-6 fatty acid,the mother of all-6 fatty acids in ourbody. There is also an often cited Japanese study that made patch tests with lavender oil for 9 years and found a huge increase in lavender oil sensitivity in 1997 (from 1.1% in 1990 to 8.7% in 1997 and 13.9% in 1998). But luckily, so far research shows thatsunscreen nanoparticles are not absorbedbut remain on the surface of the skin or in the uppermost (dead) layer of the skin. Acne.org has this not fully proven theory that thanks to this, jojoba might be able to "trick" the skin into thinking it has already produced enough sebum, so it might have "skin balancing" properties for oily skin. 
It gently lifts off dead skin cells to reveal newer, fresher, smoother skin. EAC seems to have both anantioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect, and it's claimed to be able to boost the skin's collagen production. Protects against free radical damage while promoting skin-restoring collagen production. ${currentIngredientData.definition}, ${currentIngredientProductData.retailerNote}. It's quite the multi-tasker: an emollient and water-binding ingredient but also an emulsifier and can be used for stabilization purposes. 
We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. A great moisturizer and anti-inflammatory ingredient that also helps wound healing and skin regeneration. Bottom line: Licorice is a great skincare ingredient with significant depigmenting, anti-inflammatory and even some antioxidant properties. No matter the origin, in small amounts (up to 1%) its a nice, gentle preservative. Its main component is limonene (up to 97%), a super common fragrant ingredient that makes everything smell nice. Based on the lab test, 3%Tripeptide-29 can increase collagentype I synthesis by 400% after 48 hours. The big difference is supposed to be that chemical agents absorb UV-light while physical agents reflect it like a bunch of mini umbrellas on top of theskin. Our high-performance products are inspired by and named after alpenglow: the ethereal pink light which illuminates the mountaintops, forests and valleys where our ingredients grow. We have found a study confirming this but it was the essential oil of the leaves and not the much more commonly used flowers and the two differ in their main chemical compounds very much. It's sweet and yellow and not only used for licorice all sorts but it's also a skincare superstar thanks to two magic properties: Nr. A stable form of Vitamin C, whose strong point is skin-brightening. puts it in his awesome blog post, squalane's main things are"emolliency, surface occlusion, and TEWL prevention all with extreme cosmetic elegance". In higher concentration (10% and up) it can even improve skin firmness, thickness, and wrinkles. It is also the most commonly used "base" material for layered composite pigments such as pearl-effect pigments. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. Its not a strong one and doesnt really work against bacteria, but more against mold and yeast. It also helps wound healing and skin regeneration in general. Knowing this, it will not come as a surprise that Linoleic acid has a central rolein the structure and function of stratum corneum permeability, aka healthy skin barrier. The essential oil coming from the sweet orange. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. A preservative that works mainly against fungi and has only milder effect against bacteria. Research shows that problem skin haslower levels of linoleic acid (and higher levels of oleic acid) than normal skin. According to manufacturer info, it's used for many centuries for itsexceptional healing powers and is particularly remarkable in the treatment of wounds. It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil). So LA-deficiency in the skin seems to be connected not only to an impaired skin barrier but also to acne and smearing LA all over your face might help with your problem skin. Fragrance. Its mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. When you have finished the product, rinse the empty glass bottle, remove label and recycle as glass. However, if anythinghappens whenTripeptide-29 is applied on real human skin is a good question with no answer (at least we could not find one).
We have seen extracts with only 4% glabridin as well as 40% glabridin. It's one of those things that help your cosmetics not to go wrong too soon, aka a preservative. Its main component is limonene (up to 97%), a super common fragrant ingredient that makes everything smell nice (but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer). Sunscreens containingTitanium Dioxideare often hard to spread on the skin and they leave a disturbing whitishtint. It's also often used to create liposomes. LA deficiency leads to an impairedmore permeable skin barrier and the topical application of LA-rich sunflower oil can fix this issue rapidly (while oleic-rich olive oil did not have the same barrier repairing effect). The first main difference is that while TiO2 gives a nice broad spectrum protection, Zinc Oxide has an even nicerand even broader spectrum protection. Used alone, it can make the formula sticky and it is a good team player so it is usually combined with other thickeners and so-calledrheology modifiers (helper ingredients that adjust the flow and thus the feel of the formula). The latter one is a very-very expensive ingredient, so if you are after the depigmenting properties try to choose a product that boasts its high-quality licorice extract. It's most famously used to treat bruisings, but there are some studies that show that it's not better than placebo (source: wikipedia). What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. It is the most abundant fatty acid in the epidermis and it serves as a structural precursor for important skin lipids called ceramides.
:) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! The most researched and well-known AHA exfoliant. The hard thing seems to be eating enough omega-3-s, more specificallyeating a healthy ratio of omega-6 to omega-3, but that is a topic for a what-is-good-to-eat-site and not for us. Regular sized Titanium Dioxide also has a great safetyprofile, it's non-irritating and is pretty much free from any health concerns (like estrogenic effect worries with some chemical filters). Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), and the two are completely miscible. The most common skincare ingredient of all. It contains the terpenoids chamazulene and bisabolol both of which show great anti-inflammatory action in animal studies. Its protection is very good between 290 - 350 nm (UVB and UVA II range), and less goodat 350-400 nm (UVA I) range. First, let us start with the pros: it has a lovely scent, so no wonder that it is popular as a fragrance ingredientin natural products wanting to be free from synthetic fragrances but still wanting to smell nice. Glabridin has also some soothing properties but the main active anti-inflammatory component is glycyrrhizin. Now, let us look at the cons: similar to a bunch of other essential oils, the main components of lavender oilare potentially irritating fragrant components. All in all, licorice is considered to be one of the safest skin lightening agents with the fewest side effects. Well, to understand what a wax ester is, you first have to know that oils are chemically triglycerides:one glycerin + three fatty acids attached to it. All-in-one brightening serum and illuminating primer. Thanks. It is a multi-tasker used to improve skin feel, increase product slip, give the product light-reflecting properties, enhance skin adhesion or serve as an anti-caking agent.
The two main components arelinalyl acetate (about 50%) and linalool (about 35%) and both autoxidise on exposure to the air forming strong contact allergens. Granted, the study was only done on reconstituted human epidermis, so it might or might not be like this on real human skin. It's also often used to treat skin irritationssuch as diaper rash. Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) Far from the tin cans you find in the supermarket, Tin Oxide is mostly used when dealing with so-called effect pigments, tricky composite pigments that can do color travel (change color depending on the viewingangle) or give multiple color effect.
Its the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF,hyaluronic acid(HA).
Cosmetic companies use it mainly for its anti-inflammatory properties. A helper ingredient that helps to makethe products stay nice longer, akapreservative. The two together is trade-namedLexFeel N and depending on their ratio, the duo can mimic both super light, Cyclomethicone-type skin feel as well as more viscous Dimethicone like skin feel. What research does confirm about Aloe is that its a great moisturizer and has several anti-inflammatory (among others contains salicylates, polysaccharides, magnesium lactate and C-glucosyl chromone) as well as some antibacterial components. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. is especially high in linoleic acid that is great even for acne-prone skin. Wild actives nourish with essential vitamins, Form of Vitamin C, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate, EAC;Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, LA, omega-6 fatty acid, 18:2 cis-9,12, Form of Vitamin F, Bearberry, Kinnikinnick;Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract, Licorice Root;Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract. As for skincare bearberry is interesting because it contains the well-known skin lightening agent arbutin.
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