has been moved on the R.A. and Dec. axes. There was a bit of guess work at this stage but I ignored the center dot/primary mirror center mark. In addition, the mount needs to be aligned accurately to keep tracking accurate enough to keep whatever youre imaging in the tiny field of view of the camera, which is hard when theres no polar scope or sighting hole as I mentioned previously. ", (This assumes the secondary mirror is reasonably sized and flat, and if not, that any edge defect (turned or wavy) is either not present or small enough to have minimal impact on the primary mirror's performance at higher magnifications.). As Ive mentioned before, SpaceProbe 130ST leans towards deep space performance anyway. Pleiades, Hercules, Orion, Andromeda, are all easy targets for the SpaceProbe 130ST. The optical performance difference between these two scopes is vast, and the SkyWatcher is much more stable. You can't. I've read good things about this method. A DSLR camera is too much for the focuser and mount to handle, so deep-sky astrophotography is basically out of the question in any case, autoguiders and the like would be needed for good pictures and the SpaceProbe cannot accommodate these things. A 2 focuser would make the deep space performance insane, but the one that comes with the SpaceProbe 130ST is 1.25. THEN you should fine align the primary mirror tilt with your collimation cap (always finish any collimation procedure with a final precise alignment of the primary mirror tilt). It's best to approach focuser alignment from one direction inline with the focuser axis. When the skew error is corrected, the secondary mirror reflection will "bulge" toward 3:00 (this is caused by the secondary mirror offset). But, as you know, the primary center mark also has to be centered in the collimation cap pupil, too, to bring the primary axis into collimation. When adjusting the tilt/rotation can I first look for the mirror clips and then rotate/tilt with my hand so the buldge is pointing to the right followed by tightening the allen screws? You will need a specialized eyepiece for that. No. ADobsonian telescope would be an ideal starting point and a TableTopfor budget prices. When we do that, focuser axial alignment becomes a tilt only (mostly) adjustment as Vic explains. The 130STs 650mm focal length means that even the high magnification 10mm Plossl provides only 65x. This final rotation will fix that 5 o'clock rotation "error", and the other two steps should put the diagonal naturally close to center under the focuser. I heard of secondary offset but was unaware that the bulge should point in the 3:00 direction. For purchasing this telescope, we'd recommend Orion's Telescope.com, since it's the manufacturer's own e-commerce platform. It also comes with a 2 focuser, which makes it a treat for deep sky.
You will see an insane amount of craters and mountain ranges on the Moon, and phases of Venus will be observable. Note that, the tripod and mount have not been moved; only the telescope tube. Again, you have to rotate the scope in R.A. so the counter-, weight shaft is positioned horizontally.
At f/5, this scope delivers nice wide-field views, albeit with a little coma nothing to worry about, however. Other than that, it would be best if you looked for a telescope with an altazimuthmount. I used my collimation cap as the peep hole. Its not a bad telescope by any means, and it might be something you really like, but in terms of actual advantages, there simply arent any. Or does my focuser need to be shimmed (am I looking at an angle?)? If you overshoot, simply reverse the process. But it will not look like that when the telescope is point-, ed in other directions. tions, you rotate the telescope on its R.A. and Dec. axes. I notice that when I put the tube in the focuser and look through the cap the right side of the primary mirror reflection is obscured by the tube. The 130STs 650mm focal length gives it a relatively wide field of view at low magnifications, making it great for viewing big and bright deep-sky objects like the Pleiades, Andromeda Galaxy, and so forth. This causes the secondary to tilt only in one direction toward the primary center rather than approaching it from three different directions. Then ensure the laser or cross hairs are on the center mark, again, after fixing rotation and inadvertent tilt. 20122022, manualsdir.comAll rights reserved. Doing this will raise the primary mirror center marker (an inch or so) above the intersection of the blue cross hairs. Yes (preferably a good one, like this https://www.eyepiecep/17401010.htm, A simple thin beam laser is an excellent tool for assessing and correcting the focuser axis (via secondary mirror tilt). The optical design of SpaceProbe 130ST is specialized fordeep-skyviewing. It also helps maintain your collimation signatures (and refined at the apex when you're close to collimation). While a 630 will show you more stars than you can see with the naked eye through a red dot making it easier to find targets it comes at the expense of being uncomfortable to look through and presenting an upside-down image. I have verified with a calipers that the secondary mirror holder is centered. Thank You. Jon Isaacs, Kipper-Feet and Dougeo like this. Using my collimation cap I adjusted both the secondary and primary mirrors and I'm currently at this result (see attachment). Disclosure - If you buy something via our link, we may earn a commission with no additional expense to you. When adjusting the tilt/rotation can I first look for the mirror clips and then rotate/tilt with my hand so the bulge is pointing to the right followed by tightening the allen screws? Edit: I just noticed you have aOrion Spaceprobe 130st. Would you recommend another 5 f5 reflector over this one? Otherwise, you will be stuck with mediocre performance in this area. While Dobsonians tend to be recommended to beginners, Orions SpaceProbe 130ST promises to deliver decent views with the promise of astrophotography down the road. I have not touched the collimation since my original post which Vic annotated so my original collimation errors remain. It can be fixed as Vic said above. Then, loosen the Dec. lock knob and rotate the telescope until it, is pointing straight overhead. the R.A. setting circle. So, what can you really do astrophotography-wise with the SpaceProbe 130ST? Thanks Vic and Ken for your reply's. From the apex, you can get a good look at any residual rotation and tilt errors and fix them so your collimation signatures are nicely concentric. But you don't want to use the 45 degree target on the backside of the laser because the light passes through the Barlow twice when you do that. You said that the SpaceProbe is overpriced. The details on Jupiter will be much clearer, the space between the Rings of Saturn will appear, and surface detail on Mars will be easier to see. Next, rotate the secondary so the primary reflection is centered on the secondary center line (its major axis). Center your spider in the OTA by measuring along the spider vanes from the edge of the tube wall to the spider center bolt. If you can get a deal on a used one, by all means, go for it. From there, inspecting your secondary placement against a white paper background, you may (or may not) see a need to shim the focuser or pull the spider laterally in the tube using the spider vanes. Does this scope have any important qualities that the Meade Polaris lacks? But Jason's milk jug washers are a good start--but don't split them if you plan to rotate with enough tension to maintain the tilt adjustment.). Beginners occasionally experience some confusion about, how to point the telescope overhead or in other directions. The combination of the 130mm aperture and 650mm optical length provides awide fieldview with above-average brightness and sharpness. If you notice, your secondary looks elliptical and elongated toward 5 o'clock. 1. The Zhumell Z130 and Sky-Watcher Heritage 130P are more or less the same telescope as the 130ST but mounted atop a less costly and simpler tabletop Dobsonian mount. These are the two critical adjustments. Similarly, to point the telescope directly south, the counter-, weight shaft should again be horizontal. It may not be perfectly centered, but that is OK. Now tighten the three small alignment set screws equally to secure the secondary mirror in that position. It has a 1.25 rack-and-pinion focuser, which is made mostly out of plastic but works pretty well. To check collimation, remove the eyepiece and look down, the focuser drawtube. OK--unless the secondary mirror is already concentric with the bottom edge of the focuser drawtube, the visibility of the primary mirror clips is not a valid alignment reference! This is the tilt (only) adjustment you want to see and it can be corrected by tilting only one secondary adjustment screw inline with the focuser axis while adjusting the other two in unison turning them in the same direction by the same amount to allow the tilt. I am not familiar with this scope, so I do not know any of it's potential collimation quirks, if any. Venus and Mercury will show their phases, while Mars reveals a few dark spots and its polar ice cap. You can follow anything with just the twist of a knob. that is directly overhead, at the zenith. The correct method is described here http://www.micosmos.lowed_Laser.pdf. Even the more critical axial alignments are easily assessed and corrected to tolerance. That's axial collimation. Loosen the R.A. lock knob and rotate the telescope until, the R.A. value from the star atlas matches the reading on. Can all of this just be corrected using tilt followed by rotation as Vic said in post #3? This seems odd since in my original post my secondary mirror position seems in the middle of the focuser view. Figures 8b through 8e assume you have the collimation cap in place.In addition to providing the collimation cap, youll notice a tiny ring (sticker) in the exact center of the primary mirror. You currently have javascript disabled. The SpaceProbe uses a 630 optical finder as opposed to the red-dot finders often found on many beginner scopes. But, once you get the tilt process correct by using the secondary adjustment screws correctly, you can minimize the unwanted tilt and induced rotation. The SpaceProbe 130ST does a fairly good job on the Moon and planets, at least if you purchase an additional eyepiece or Barlow 65x isnt exactly going to make viewing small details on them easy. When I try looking through the tube with my collimation cap on top (the top of the tube has an inside diameter of 1.25 inches) everything is skewed. Remember, once the mount is polar aligned, the. In fact, almost required, IMO. Can be upgraded to have motorized tracking, For the price, you could get a 6 Dobsonian.
Its not a bad scope, but its of little practical benefit compared to just buying a Dobsonian. The image was too large to fit with my previous post. As Jon said above, those adjustments above only deal with your illuminated field of view and are not critical to axial collimation. You need anadditionalplanetaryeyepieceto reach the planetary potential of SpaceProbe 130ST. Your telescope's optics were, aligned at the factory, and should not need much adjustment, unless the telescope is handled roughly. In addition to the power and laptop requirements, youll need a 3x or 5x Barlow lens to get the SpaceProbe to an optimal focal length Barlows this strong are too much for visual use but the optimal focal ratio for planetary imaging is f/15 to f/25. Edited by jwpkrfan, 19 November 2019 - 08:47 PM. But, it's also nice to see everything (the three collimation signatures) looking nice and concentric, as well. I live in the suburbs so any serious observation will require travel. I have verified with a calipers that the secondary mirror holder is centered. How bad is this and is it worth making it perfectly circular on a f5 reflector? Edited by Vic Menard, 12 November 2019 - 10:48 AM. According to the pic above, you need to move the secondary up the tube and away from the primary mirror to center it under the focuser along the longitudinal axis of the tube. I'm pretty sure there are instructions online. Collimating. Most setting circles are not accurate enough to put an object, dead-center in the telescope's eyepiece, but they should, place the object somewhere within the field of view of the, finder scope, assuming the equatorial mount is accurately, polar aligned. currently have a tasco 60mm refracting toy. Locally, I can choose between this and an AWB Onesky. To point the telescope to the east or west, or in other direc-. Community Forum Software by IP.BoardLicensed to: Cloudy Nights, This is not recommended for shared computers, Elongated stars in 1 direction with mount off, I found a prefect position for polemaster on wedged evolution mount. For whatever reason Orion has covered the back of the primary mirror cell with a useless metal plate obscuring the collimation screws and hindering cooldown it must be removed with a Phillips head screwdriver. This is where precise rotation (only) comes in very handy. I appreciate the feedback. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. If you find any incorrect information provided, please kindly send us an email. scale that is on the eastern half of the Dec. setting circle. This is a very important last step to placing your secondary nicely. Use Jason's method here https://www.cloudyniment/?p=5260727. And yet, the two misalignments delivered an almost perfectly centered primary mirror center marker (the more important focuser axial alignment). Put your secondary adjustment screws into a more neutral position. Orion SpaceProbe 130ST has an unnecessary set of features that will make your life harder instead of easier. This small error is unlikely to impact your image performance. I would recommend the Zhumell Z130, Celestron Astro-Fi 130, or AWB OneSky instead. As Jon mentioned above, using the windowed laser with a Barlow is less precise than using a balanced Barlowed laser (as originally proposed by Nils Olof Carlin in the link above). On ideal conditions, you may get a glimpse of Neptunes largest moon, Triton. centered under the focuser, but it needs to be adjusted (tilted) so that the entire primary mirror is visible. A planetary eyepiece is necessary for the SpaceProbe 130ST. Youll be able to see hundreds of beautiful open star clusters, detail in a few dozen galaxies (provided you have dark skies under urban or suburban viewing conditions most galaxies are little more than smudges), jaw-dropping details in nebulae like Orion and the Swan, and you can just begin to resolve bright globular clusters like M13 and M22 into individual stars on a good night. One thing you DO NOT do is make any adjustment to the, latitude adjustment T-bolt.
I got it as a second (returned from another customer) so when it arrived one of the spider vanes was loose and the secondary mirror was out of collimation. Any laser can be Barlowed. Edited by jwpkrfan, 11 November 2019 - 06:46 PM. Orion did the best they could, but a rock-solid EQ mount is hard to manufacture at budget prices.
Because it lies directly in the shadow of the secondary mirror, its presence in no way adversely affects the optical performance of the tele-scope or the image quality. As Ive mentioned before, an equatorial mount is not easy to manufacture and adds to the cost. Uranus and Neptune will appear as blueish dots. looking to upgrade to either a starblast 4.5 or spaceprobe 130st. Do I need to move the secondary mirror to the left? a. I moved the secondary mirror using the center screw until the secondary mirror appeared centered. Turning the screw clockwise will move the secondary mirror toward the front opening of the optical tube, while turning the screw counter-clockwise will move the secondary mirror toward the primary mirror.When the secondary mirror is centered in the focuser draw-tube, rotate the secondary mirror holder until the reflection of the primary mirror is as centered in the secondary mirror as possible. e. Raised the focuser to get the focus tube out of the reflection and took a picture. If you dont get a planetary eyepiece, you will be limited to the major details. Neither is actually the case. Or does my focuser need to be shimmed (am I looking at an angle?)? Hopefully it has none. Doing so nearly aligns the secondary adjustment screws in such way that one screw does most of the tilting instead of all three of them individually. When the primary mirror is correctly aligned, the dot will be centered, as in. telescope should be moved only on the R.A. and Dec. axes. Vic Menard, Jason Khadder (Jason D) who collaborates with Vic and the late Nils Olof Carlin, the inventor of the Barlowed Laser Method. is the increase in aperture significant enought when observing planets or galaxies? That will nullify the mount's polar, alignment. The Orion SpaceProbe 130ST is one of many beginner telescopes sold on an equatorial mount, with the premise that an equatorial mount is either more advanced or capable of astrophotography. So is the EQ mount worth it? I'd suggest using your secondary adjustment screws in a way that may not be intuitive. Can I use this as a reference aide? Collimating the scopes primary mirror requires a screwdriver which can be rather frustrating in the field. It helps to adjust the secondary mirror in a brightly lit room with the telescope pointed toward a bright surface, such as white paper or wall. I'm probably loosening them too much. So, we can try to do so. Use the slow-motion controls to center the, object in the finder scope, and it should appear in the tele-, The R.A. setting circle must be re-calibrated every time you, wish to locate a new object. I notice that the center of the collimation cap is no-longer centered in the center of the primary mirror when I insert the tube. Here's the sight tube I made. How well does the drain pipe register (fit) in your focuser? Even under poor seeing conditions, the 130ST can take 100x and up to 250x is possible on good nights with good collimation. If the secondary mirror is centered under the focuser and the laser is collimated should I get the same result as my collimation cap? The EQ2 is up to the task of holding the 130ST, but not the steadiest mount available for such a scope particularly if you extend the tripod legs to a comfortable height. Using a 2mm Allen wrench, loosen the three small alignment setscrews in the center hub of the 3-vaned spider several turns. Manually tracking space objects is not that hard, especially if the optical tube is attached to a butter-smooth base like the one on a Dobsonian. I heard of secondary offset but was unaware that the bulge should point in the 3:00 direction. The SpaceProbe 130ST is quite a nice scope and our main criticism of it is its poor value if bought new. The less expensive ones come with a target on them but if they are not worth it I'll consider something better. But this comes with a price. The low focal ratio makes a planetary eyepiece necessary, but for deep space, the 25mm eyepiece will be adequate for some time. how do you do it? Here is what you have to know about astrophotography:it is an entirely different field. The 130STs equatorial mount has an attachment for a motor drive. All in all, while planetary astrophotography can be done with the SpaceProbe 130ST, youll be spending more than the scope costs to do so, and youll be limited severely by its inexpensive mount and 5 aperture. By the way, collimation is the process of aligning the optics, if you dont know what that means. The quality of the laser is not important for the Barlowed Laser method, that is one of the beautiful things about the Barlowed laser, the laser need not be aligned. And before I forget, I'd like to welcome jwpkrfan to Cloudy Nights! Here's how I got my current collimation. Above-average deep-sky performance and decent planetary performance.
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