Shore hardness 82A and printing settings: 220-260C, speed 30-110mm/s.
Tends to caube "blobs" (collects filament to outside of nozzle and at some point "drops" the collected blob to printed part). Very dark glossy green. I have printed almost everything with PLA.
Silk PLA has added magic that makes it shine. Stringiness is problem, and retraction settings don't seem to have any effect to it. Because the overall amount of material used wasnt significant, the color change is very subtle and gradually changes from a saturated green to a yellow-green mix. Stringiness was high for a PLA filament. Tend to have bed adhesion issues are requires very thorough drying before printing and even then tends to "bubble". Medium green: Filament-PM ABS Green (Alternative: Fillamentum ABS Turquoise Green) You can revoke your consent any time using the Revoke consent button. Also if I'm R3D call glitter filament "Twingling". Does not print as well as niceABS. The denser print transitioned much more quickly and went through two complete color changes during the printing process. I haven't used much yet PETG. If you want high-gloss prints, silk PLA is a great choice, but there are a few alternatives: PET and PETG are both a little shinier than PLA, though not as shiny as most silk filaments. Had bad experiences with Prusa and standard Voron V2.4, but after modifying so that I can reach 55C chamber temperature Printed Pressure Advance square tower using 205C and vertical walls look printed at 100mm/s look ok. Color name is accurate, finish is matte but there is little diffused gloss. They also had good advice like: Recommended 200-230C nozzle and 60-90C bed. Finish is @25mm/s matte 185-195C, and start to get semiglossy 205-215C - layer print temperature has effect to glossiness/darkness. I printed the Plunderbuss Pete model on Longer LK5 Pro 3D printer using the Standard Quality print setting in Cura using TTYD3D rainbow PLA filament for this model.
Jake3D webpages have these wrong). Black: Fillamentum ABS Traffic Black (Alternatives: more matte finish and higher temperature resistance: Filament-PM ABS-T Black / Fiberlogy ABS Onyx for "sparkly" use cases) This time they got our attention by introducing a thermochromic filament, which changes its color depending on the temperature. Additional recommendations from website: Flow rate 110-130%, can be printed fast (they mention >80mm/s. EDIT: After moving from Prusa i3 to Voron V2.4 I have moved to PLA silk filaments, some PETG - I have seen only few ABS, which I would call glossy (e.g. nice top and bottom surfaces - I have parts with top surface ironing and I can't see or feel which surface is top and which bottom. Color is like gold and finish always shiny. General: 3DJake.com defines 220-250C and 95-110C. Prints very nicely, and doesn't need as badly drying as other PETG I have tried (of course beneficial to dry filament before printing). External perimiters nice and shiny, no matter what settings. Generally good filaments, print well and look nice, but bed adhesion is on the weak side. as layer adhesion is not great in any of the Prusament PLAs. Bed adhesion was on low side when printed using 65C bed temperature. I have tested lots of ABS/ASA filaments to find the best ones for me. Bed adhesion weak even with 60C bed and 225C nozzle. 3DJake instructs 195-215C nozzle. Black was next to impossible to find settings to print with 0.4mm nozzle. Slightly lighter than Extrudr Flex semisoft black, almost dark grey on external perimeters after cooling, but top remains black. Color is little weird combo of blue and green, some sort of turquoise - on spool looks more green, but actual prints look dark blue. As it's PETG I used textured bed and bed adhesion was OK, but was not enough to hold print (110mm x 160mm x 55mm box, top open, with 10mm rounding on bottom corners) in the print plate, but insteds corners did lift. PETG prints much better if it's first dried about 10h with food dehydrator. Very nice and vibrant color, somewhat transparent. Color is saturated red, not as saturated as Prusament Lipstick Red but very close.
(even better than eSun ABS+, really really good) and printed result is litte transparent as well. Recommended: Nozzle 240-260C and bed 100-110C. Test print was done 230C & 75C; 44mm/s and 22mm/s don't have much difference, and 11mm/s was clearly darker. Recommendation 230-240C and bed 90-100C. At 240C longer layer print time caused the yellow to be darker (complex structure with lots of horizontal planes => external perimiters on heights with longer layers with lots of solid infill/top infill did look different). I have very small experience of flexible filaments. Prints OK, may cause stringiness. Temperatures from cardboard box: nozzle 210-235C, heated bed required 70-80C. Did create clog/jam at 240C and 100C, and didn't stick to bed very well either. Blue: Filamentworld ABS+ Blue (Alternatives; lighter Fillamentum ABS Sky Blue, darker Extrudr ABS Blue) Recommendation: nozzle 210-250C, bed 60-100C. Weak bed adhesion. This filament tends to be little "stringy", and don't like to be printed above 205C, even manufacturer says 190-230C. Surface finish is shiny.
As filament was not good for low temperature printing I decided to print 2nd test print, but this time at maximum recommended temperature 235C. Printed Pressure Advance square tower using 225C and vertical walls look printed at 100mm/s in a way Not tried yet. At 250C printed part was good, no layer to layer variancy due to filament diameter changes, but in closer inspection large differences on layer print No color tint, black as it should be. Package: nozzle 200-240C, bed 80C. This is most commonly done with ABS, though others can work. and I use also 0.8mm, 1.0mm nozzles, and rarely 0.4mm and 1.4mm Printed 250C and 100C and print quality was very good like all Fillamentums. If nothing else mentioned results are based on PrusaSlicer default Another interesting desktop 3D printer material to try is the color-changing on temperature filament. Got 100x better feeling than from other Prusament PETGs I have tries before, also didn't "bubble" and have other Youll get exclusive subscriber offers, and more projects, ideas, and inspiration than you can shake a toolbox at. Recommended temperatures 210-220C nozzle and 20-60C bed. Prints very nicely at 250C, haven't tried other temperatures. Recommendation 200-230C nozzle and 50-60C. time cause slightly visible differences between layers. 240C almost no stringing, 250C little stringing and 260-270C lots of stringing. To test this theory, I set up an experiment to see how much influence over the transition speed I could have by altering the properties of the print. Package: nozzle 210-240C, bed 40-60C. Filament PM's Green ABS) My temperature tower has 20-60mm bridging and this filament bridged quite well using all temperatures (bridging default speed 25mm/s, top part 20mm/s - does not seem to make difference). Exceptional layer adhesion; when breaking 2 perimiter wide vertical walls, they are very tough to break and when broken mostly seemed to break based on how I twisted, not always following layer lines like with most filament. If trying to imitate gold color then it's worth to note that slower print speed will cause darker end results, and to imitate gold the 44mm/s on test sample was closest to gold in my eye - so in practice very hard to make things look like gold as small and/or complicated objects will not print this high speeds. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website. Recommended: 220-250C nozzle and 70-80C bed. Printed parts are so smooth; smooth perimeters and really On Z-level where layer print time changes radically there were issues, like shrinkage of whole layer which layer print time was 10x previous layers. Printed Voron StealthBurner cooling ducts @ 255C & 110C => chamber temp was 52-53C Not good on bridging, 15mm is too much. Package: nozzle 230-255C, bed 60-80C, Not tried yet. But the surface finish is always a little matt. Color is very close to army green, but little more saturated. Either this is the sh#ttiest ASA on top of earth or the manufacturer recommends are way off, next time try 260C and very low fan even there is enough chamber temperature. Recommendation: nozzle 230-260C, bed 90-120C. Glossy finish. I'm very doubtful about the bed temperature recommendation, it look quite high for PETG. Printed the first 4 colours at 215C. I really would like to use PETG as there really aren't many glossy PLA filaments. Amount of glitter is moderate, more than in Prusament "Galaxy" but way less than in 3D Jake. Very little variation between layers even layer print time varies. We wouldnt recommend silk PLA for any mechanically important parts the elastomers that make it shiny affect its strength. General: 3DJake.com recommends 200-240C & 90-110C. 20mm/s was darker than default speed 35mm/s. matte = no reflection, e.g. pulled so hard that spool holder did fall from shelf and caused small crack to display box, need to print new one Light gray with glitter, 2-3x as much glitter as in Prusament for example. no warping. from setting then I typically adjust the temperature. I used 4 perimiters, which removed the issue if seeing the infill, I can see infill via bottom and when using 2 layers.. The best thing about PLA Silk Filament is that it looks so dazzling straight from the printer that it doesn't need any painting. Gray/Silver: Fillamentum ASA Vertigo Gray (Alternative Filament-PM ABS Silver) This is because of Semigloss finish.
Filement is quite stringy, and some experimenting In the print I did I used feature to adjust layer height and it was mistake; the 0.15mm layer height is considerable less saturated and less transparent than layers printed 0.30mm. To be noted that the filaments I got in earliest (2019???) Tried with and without fan, and tried 220C and 240C - none worked, When small printing speed used produces semigloss results. OK, its not magic, its elastomers that leave your prints looking glossy and gorgeous. Package: nozzle 230-255C, bed 60-80C. In addition of bed housing being weak, Shore hardness 85A and printing settings: 220-250C, bec 50-60C, speed 10-20mm/s. Additionally noticed that very large prints were more khaki, and smaller prints had more yellow/orange tint on them. Yellow: Filament-PM ABS Yellow (Alternative: Extrudr ASA Yellow, slightly less glossy alternative) As I plan not to sand and paint the 3D-printed parts the color Warping is much worse than PLA, and in most large prints at least the corners tend to "lift off" with PLA. Similar to the Matte PLA Army green with similar layer to layer issues. Very pale green as expected. to be OK if I keep the volumetric speed below 3.6mm3/s (with the 1.15 extrusion multiplier it totals to ~4.3mm3/s in the PrusaSlicer visualization). Since the material changes colors throughout the spool, the speed at which the colors change is entirely dependent on how much material is used during the print.
Posted
Not tried yet. Used 260C & 100C. If you are not happy with the quality of our product we are happy to replace it. with cooling fan blowing 33% all the time and 80% in overhangs, and used 0.96 extrusion multiplier; excellent results, nothing technical or surface quality In spool it says 230-250C. These cookies do not store any personal information. Print quality pretty nice, not much stringing. Quite low temperatures for ABS+. Amazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings: 95A, nozzle 200-220C, bed 50-80C. Top solid surface best when extrusion multiplier set to 107%. Package recommends 220-250C nozzle, 0-60C bed, 50-100% fan and no enclosure. According to Filament-PM 240-260C nozzle, 100-110C bed and needs "Magigoo PC". All this after oepning factory closed pack and drying 18h at 60C. Recommended nozzle 215-240C and 100-110C bed (notice! Manufacturers often surprise us with something new and unusual, like adding sparkles or multicolored segments on the spool. After trying and getting disappointed Spectrum PLAs this was positive surprise. provide strong prints, but they look better. If your print has large flat areas or gentle curves, the reflections will pick up any issues, such as ghosting or a Z seam. Dried properly before printing, and was surprised for this cheap PETG: printed very well, not any kind of issues, there was not even warping on my first print, which was 15 hour printout. Make sure spool holder is skrewed, not loose - there was spooling issue and i3S If manufacturer recommended temperature differs Similar neon green as Sunlu PETG. Filament tested using the 6x temperature tower using PrusaSlicer default speed for three bottom "layers" and 20mm/s for three top layers, and temperatures 215-200-185C. Prusa recommends 215C and 50-60C. Little bit darker than the other "army green" like greens, hue is little from green towards blue.
advertises this filament like this: Recommendation 250-265C nozzle and 90-110C. Recommended: 200-235C nozzle and 50-60C bed. small figurines etc. Bed adhesion very weak or warping very strong or both, definitely will not buy again this one. 
Similar to Neon Green and Ultramarine Blue; tends to have bed adhesion issues and also similar issues requiring 10-12h drying of filament before printing. Difference in layer printing duration didn't seem to cause color/tone/glossiness. ), I was able to make some very interesting-looking parts. This page contains my notes from different filaments. Result is somewhat transparent. exactly same fro between 225C to 255C, and even 265C was only marginally worse. by adding fans to transfer heat under the bed to chamber, I have Very easy to print due the base elements being PLA. Used 240C and 110C bed and 55C chamber temperature. Very transparent, the inner fill shows through perimiters - I don't know situation when I would like the inner fill shown, so maybe using 8 or 16 perimiters needed to hide the inner fill. Recommenended 200-240C nozzle and 40-60C bed. Bench printed at 220C was stringy and there was quite a lot of layer to layer differences (bad tolerance of filament). We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website.
nozzles. For example 200mm bar with 10mm width and 17mm heigth raises from smooth PEI bed, And now its got even better, with the introduction of the new internet-enabled Ra.
Recommended nozzle temperature 185-220C.
Sadly colors suck in ABS-T "series" of filaments from Filament PM, this kind of print quality would be interesting on other colors as well. The slight increase in flexibility may be useful for some prints, but if this is what youre after, a different plastic, such as PETG, may be more appropriate. Filament is more flexible and softer than normal PLA, makes also different sound when dropped to table for example, also possible to scratch with fingernail - Filament properties very similar to Fiberlogy FiberSilk filaments. Recommendation: nozzle 2420-260C. In some models you can just the "net" from few layers, but in this model "spacer" was better option. First test print was with PrusaSlicer "Generic FLEX" (volumetricly limited to 1.2mm3/s, 1.15 extrusion multiplier => will be printing everything at 1.4mm3/s); Silk filament can create excellent-looking prints, but it can also highlight every imperfection in the print, depending on how its used. Did print otherwise OK but there is too much stringing, and tried 8 all retractions between 0 and 4mm. what I could complain in the print. Package: nozzle 190-230C, 25-60C.
Filament is transparent, interesting to see how parts turn outand oh boy this filament prints very nicely Clearly softer than the other 95A filaments. Upgrade your ideas subscribe to HackSpace magazine!
Extrudr recommends 40-60mm/s printing speed. Temperature range is on the low end; 180-200C. Filament PM says that this is hard to print, but printed 240C nozzle and 110C bed (to increase chamber temperature) Spool is same as Prusa's "Pearl" filaments have. Recommendation: nozzle 220-260C. Printed "fine" with PrusaSlicer's "Generic Flex" profile, with speed increased to 3mm3/s (very stringy and overhangs were bad quality). To increase the speed of the color transition, this model could have been printed with a higher level of infill or increased in size to increase the total amount of material used. Surface finish was shiny and filament looks very good, beautiful light blue. PS. Best settings seem to be 230C and unlike many other filaments extrusion multiplier 100% produces good top surfaces, 105% was not significantly better. Marc de Vinck has been tinkering with some favourite music-making accessories for Raspberry Pi, Space Shuttle Discovery Soldering Kit review, An electronics project thats out of this world, Classic magnetic fun updated for the maker age, Loopie lamp's smooth edges transition through light sequences, Convert goo into plastic parts as fast as possible, NanoRobotGeek's beautiful sculpture reacts to its surroundings. At 210C there was "stringiness", next time trying to print 200C. Spool is 100% identical to Sunly PETG I ordered at same time from Amazon in 2020, and both have this ridiculously low 200-220C recommendation, interesting to see if Sunly is actually same filament with same issues. Color is "annoying", very vibrant baby blue - maybe if one likes baby blue color doesn't at all match to the color on Amazon/eBay photos on advertisements (those tend to be something which generally is called Royal Blue). Prints that use more material will change color at a faster rate than prints that only use a small amount of material. Perimeters glossy, top between glossy and semiglossy. Prints with all Devil Design This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. Glue stick is mandatory, won't stick to textured bed good enough. Ended up using 1mm (really high value compared to ABS and PLA). "Generic PLA" OR filament specific NinjaTek shore hardness and printing settings: 85A, nozzle 225-250C, bed 50C + gluestick, top and bottom 10-20mm/s, infill 15-35mm/s, layer 2+ use cooling fan. and print quality is at best level (on par with Filamentum ABS for example), minimal or no variations on Z-layers even on my test print PET [], Your email address will not be published. 245&Deg;C most likely optimal for glossy finish and still minimum stringing. Extreme bed adhesion, do not use with smooth PEI; will rip pieces from PEI Good filaments, print very nicely. So need to observe this when printing next time with this filament using smooth PEI sheet. The filament I used is Enotepad Silk PLA+, it is currently available for sale directly from their site as well as on Amazon. Surface can be very nicely glossy or semiglossy based on printing temperature. Considering how hard Fillamentum 98A is it was surprice to me how much more flexible this filament on spool is - Prima recommends 220-270C. temperature have which kind of effect to surface quality. Package and spool say very wide temperature range 230-270C and 80-120C bed. In general I would recommend setting at least 65C bed 45 overhang was OK, 55 overhand did curve upwards towards end of bed (the part cooling fan blows from front), and this was pretty bad as well as the whole rear edge of 55 overhang. Package: nozzle 185-215C, bed 0-45C. Finish is always glossy, shade of gray depends on alyer print time (e.g.
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